Project Boat - 3.8m Markham Whaler

[brw0513]

Just like to show a few pics and tell a bit of a story about my project boat. It’s a 3.8m Markham Whaler that is approx. 1982 vintage.

Any comments or suggestions on repair/restoration work or advice on 3.8m Markham Whalers generally would be gratefully received.

I’m a big fan of the 3.8m Markham Whaler. Nice and stable, good amount of internal free-board in standard form for my young daughters, is “big� for 3.8m and fits in my garage very neatly. Could be perfect I reckon as a bream boat in smooth waters.

The breed appears to me to have a few issues though.

Unless the trailer roller heights are set up very well, the hull will get damaged when being towed. Mine certainly has.

The fuel tank is within the port side sponson but fuel leaks past the filler neck when fueling and has made the fibreglass soft in this area and it certainly needs to be repaired.

The transom underwent a few design iterations. It appears the height was varied at least once on the single outboard versions. There is a version that is higher than mine. Mine also appears very weak where the transom joins the gunwhales. Some cracks have developed and I think they are more serious than just cosmetic cracks in the gel coat.

I have not yet been able to get the boat to run the way I would like. The 35Hp Evinrude runs well enough but it takes an eternity to get the boat onto the plane. It will do 21mph once there (which is fast enough for me) but takes about twenty seconds to get onto the plane. It also comes off the plane way to easily especially in a following sea. Not good when trying to outrun inclement weather. I have a lot to learn about powering a catamaran in single outboard configuration.

I believe the outboard is running way too deep. I have seen other 3.8m Whalers with 35Hp Evinrudes fitted with a foil. I have no doubt it would help but I believe there is a set-up height problem. I have done some testing looking for the optimum set-up height. Lifting the outboard 2� was an improvement and I was going to go further but the stern started to make some awful cracking type noises so I stopped and headed home with my tail between my legs.

I’m intending to:

- spilt the deck from the hull to repair and strengthen the sponsons from the inside and repair/address the fuel leak issue,
- rebuild the transom 2� higher and make it stonger,
- fit an adjustable engine mount so I can easily vary the outboard running depth to complete my speed testing,
- repair the deck, and
- fit a modern 40Hp outboard with foil and experiment with prop sizes to limit top speed to say 22mph but really jump onto the plane.

In for a penny, in for a pound as they say.

I hope to be able to post further pics and info as I propgress.

Any advice welcomed.

[brw0513]

Pic 2

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Pic 3

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Pic 7

[Dav]

G day have the same boat and was wondering how your project turned out i picked mine up for $ 900.00 it also has similar problems i have put 30hp merc on it . Also its amazing how many times im asked about this boat but dont have much info on it . Any info would be great thankyou

[KD73]

Go to www.board.net.au then select The Board Index.

This site has members of all ages who can answer ANY question you could possibly think of. You could spend hours just looking at the pics of
all the vintage outboards and boats.

Kd

[brw0513]

Dav,

I have recently sold the boat on fleabay for much less than it was worth to me It wasn't finished - we need a second car and the garage space much more than a project boat so unfortunately it had to go.

The following is based on my research and opinion.

I did some basic calculations a while ago and I think a modern 40Hp outboard (2-stroke to save weight) is the right fitment. Choose a prop of large diameter but the smallest pitch within the range offered. Sacrifice some top speed for prop area.

You also need one of these to keep the disturbed water behind the boat away from the prop
http://www.solas.com.au/shopexd.asp?id=78

Then do some water testing. Start with the anti-ventilation plate on the lower leg at about 3" below a straight line across the bottom of both sponsons. Then raise the outboard 1/2" at a time and do some speed trials in both directions to average the effect of any tidal flow.

Have a good look at the smaller Webster Twinfishers. The skeg immediately ahead of the outboard leg serves a very valuable purpose!

I highly recommend you strengthen the transom of the boat before you do anything. My transom was very weak indeed - not because of any rot, but the design left a lot to be desired.

I think adding pods to each sponson is also necessary. At rest in the water there was not much freeboard back there.

Also have a look here at my project

http://s178.photobucket.com/albums/w...kham%20Whaler/

Hope this helps.

Send me a PM if you like an I will reply with my mobile number for a chat.

[Rodt]

Ian,
I notced in your pic that you removed the inner skin from the outer hull. How hard was that? I am doing up a whaler 3.8 & want to get to the fuel tank & glass some repairs in the hul. It would be so much easier if I could remove the inner skin (without destroying it).