Turns right, but struggling left

[tobymcclure]

Hey lads quick question before I take my skeeter in for a check up. I have the sea star steering. I can turn right easily as though it should. However it really struggles turning left? Any one else had this issue ?

[seamonkey]

Are you saying when underway or sitting on the trailer say?

[tobymcclure]

While I'm underway

[seamonkey]

If it works fine at rest Are you sure your trimming the boat correctly? Sounds like torque steer - you need to trim up until the steering force is balanced each way.

[tobymcclure]

I should have given a few more details
In what's happening . While just underway (just in gear and idling around ) it turns right smooth and effortlessly , when I want to correct my turn or turn left ( at idle or at a decent pace ) it turns left but really small amounts, it feels
Like its biting ( not literally) or turns a small ammount then grabs a little , turns a little then grabs again .

It doesn't happen when I turn right though. At idle or at WOT

[seamonkey]

Right turns will always be easier because your going with the torque. If the left performance is inconsistent you may have air in the system. Quite easy to bleed the system and would be the first step - the Sea Star site has the various manuals.

After that I would be looking to the check valves in the helm - sometimes they can get sticky.

S

[seamonkey]

Try this -

http://www.jamestowndistributors.com..._Reference.pdf

S

And this if you want to have a crack at it yourself.You will loose fluid so drop sheet and plenty of rags. You may or may not have to remove the helm unit to do this.


Please follow these instructions and test to get your valves in good working condition.
1. The Check valve is a single valve that moves back in fourth during the steering operation.
It is located on both sides of the helm pump. The plug is a large slotted head screw
2. These removal instructions are the same for both sides of the helm pump, and the units included in the
helm are identical on both sides.
3. Remove the plug from the helm pump, both sides (see below). Be careful not to loose any parts that
may come flying out.
4. Remove the spring and brass eyelet, the ball.
5. To remove the o’ring/ball seat, you will need to CAREFULLY remove the o’ring (do not damage this
o’ring. Once o’ring is removed, the ball seat will fall
out.
6. With both sides removed the valve should fall out. If not you will need to force it out carefully, DO
NOT DAMAGE THE VALVE, or the helm is garbage.
7. Clean the passageway free of any dirt or debris.
8. Put the valve back in.
9. You want to reassemble one side at a time only. Before placing the spring back in stretch it just a
LITTLE bit to give it a little more tension. Then put everything back in, replacing item #6 (see below
and instructions).
10. With one side assembled, flip the helm upside down so you can see the tip of the valve. With a pen
push the valve down, the valve should return on it’s own. If it does remove the whole assembly you
just put in and repeat with the other side. If the valve returns on both sides, reassemble the whole
assembly both sides.
11. TEST. Plug the back of the helm pump completely. At this point try to turn the steering wheel on the
pump. If it does not turn, you are good to go, put helm back in and re-bleed the steering system. If it
does turn you must repeat all above steps again.

[tobymcclure]

Thanks mate. I'll look at it tomorrow see where I stand .

Thanks

[Steve Morgan]

Air in your hydraulics. Needs a bleed as per seamonkey's instructions. Will cost you a bottle of SeaStar fluid, an empty ice cream container and some rags.

SM

[tobymcclure]

Originally Posted by Steve Morgan

Air in your hydraulics. Needs a bleed as per seamonkey's instructions. Will cost you a bottle of SeaStar fluid, an empty ice cream container and some rags.

SM

cheers mate..

[funfisher]

if you have one of the finned style sacraficial anodes check it is pointing straight.

[Dodgy back]

It's an easy job , don't let technical talk put you off. If you can bleed brakes, you can do this.

[seamonkey]

To avoid any confusion I should point out the written instructions are if you need to do the check valves only. The link leads to the 'bleeding' instructions.

As Mick says a bleed is an easy 15 min job especially with a glamorous assistant to turn the steering wheel whilst you do it. Just don't overtighten the bleed nipple - a gentle nip is all that is required.

S.

[tobymcclure]

Originally Posted by funfisher

if you have one of the finned style sacraficial anodes check it is pointing straight.

I have a 25 tempest, there isnt enought roon to fit a fin annode. Ill bleed them and go from there , thanks guys

[freshjacker]

Hi Toby,
Most good marine shops should have a sea star purging pump, It takes 2min too completely bleed a system wright through, not only that but this system can quickly let you know if there is a small leak in one side of the line and be quickly fixed. I own one of these kits but am on the north side of Brisbane. I use to do it the way as listed above, but you could never quiet get a perfect airless system but this method forces the hydraulic fluid through under pressure and pushes the air out and filters any impurities. But it is quiet simple to do as the boys said then look at the helm itself.