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#1
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How to change a butt
Hi All,
Just wondering how i would change the butt/handle section on my rod. the blank is alright but not entirely happy with the handle. It was a relatively cheap rod so if i destroy it I'm not too bothered but if i can make if feel better it'll be great. I may even decide to shorten it but that isn't the main priority. Thanks in advance guys. Craig
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Craig |
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#2
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What are you trying to change it too?
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#3
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Dunno really, just want a better grip on my bigger stick, but i suppose a better reel seat is the main priority
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Craig Last edited by IceManDude; 26-06-2008 at 07:41 AM. |
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#4
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Show us a pic IceMan, and give an idea of what you're after. I'm sure one of us can point you to an easy to do refit that should perform well.
1 piece or 2 piece? What model? |
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#5
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I'll post a pic this arvo. Its just a cheap Daiwa 2 piece model.
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Craig |
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#6
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Craig, posting a pic of what you want is probably more
important than what you have. |
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#7
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whats with the flood of 'can i masacre my rod butt' of late...
sems to be a new trend...lol anywho as fats has said it all depends on what you want to acheive... IF its a full but rebuild then you simply start by 'removing' allthe existing seat and grips...bit fiddly and quite scry BUT not at all hard you will ned some sharp blades, i use the snap off ones in a good handel, a dremel if you can get hodl of one is THE most usefull tool...alt you will have to use a hacksaw (for the seat) a BBQ butane lighter and some fine wet and dry sand paper in aprox 400 and 800 grit few bands ot masking tape over the binding at the top of the fore grip will protect that area, and when you putthe new grips on you will stop there... if its EVA grip us the blades and slice the grips of in ling sections, DONT run the blad stright into the grip as it will cut the blank, go in on a flat angle... IF its cork use a serrated steak knife and be carfull not to go to close to the blank. you can finish that off with the blades... for the seat if you have a dremel use the cutt off wheel and carfully cutt through tthe steel hoods of the seat, remove them, then cut along the channel of the seat only ned to go 2 mm deep, any further and you will risk cuting tha blank, once you hace the seam cut use a flat blade screwdriver with teh seat on the floor and prize the seat of...DONT HOLD IT IN YOUR HAD OR YOU W I L L STAB YOUR SELF !!!!!! TRUST ME !!!!! if your using a hacksaw starting @ one end cut acros the seat on a flat 45 deg angle till you get to the glue / tape under neath and keep cutting an that angle around and down the seat, then again use the screwdriver to prize it off... now your down to the glue / tape...using the BBQ lighter CARFULLY heat up any glue that is over the tape in small sections and with teh blade slice it off...do this out side as the fumes are not all that good...these epoxy glues witll crumble when heated so they are pretty easy tpo get off with teh right amont of heat, use the blade to again cut through the tape bands and stro them off...this section will take a while... once the bulk of the seat / glue / tape / grips are off, use the BACK of the blade to scrape the remaining reside of the blank, you will take the clear coat of as well in this process, carfully go back to the bare blank...IF you use the sharp blade on an angle you WILL slice the blank and damage it... once you all cleaned up get the 400 grit paper and spend a while sanding the whole area with water as graphite is VERY fine and will clog up the paper quickly...once yor happy repeat with the 800 grit and your back to a clean canvas to start again... alt, go find a rod with a butt you like and BUY IT !!!!!! lol
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PB - Hard Body A.Butcheri: 43cm Fork - Strike PRO Pygmy in XBBO & C'ultive Mirror Shad in Ayu A.Australis: 2.14kg (not measured) - Tilsan Bass in Jaffa PB - Soft Plastic A.Butcheri: 41cm Fork - Squidgy Wriggler 65mm in bloodworm / Gamakatsu 211 1/32 jig head A.Australis: 34cm fork - Squidgy Bug in Bloodworm / Squidgy Resin head
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#8
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and anyone else wanting to play tim the tool man with their rods...please print that off for future reference so i dont have to type it again !!!!!!
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PB - Hard Body A.Butcheri: 43cm Fork - Strike PRO Pygmy in XBBO & C'ultive Mirror Shad in Ayu A.Australis: 2.14kg (not measured) - Tilsan Bass in Jaffa PB - Soft Plastic A.Butcheri: 41cm Fork - Squidgy Wriggler 65mm in bloodworm / Gamakatsu 211 1/32 jig head A.Australis: 34cm fork - Squidgy Bug in Bloodworm / Squidgy Resin head
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#9
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Hahahah......what he said!!
HotRods, I know why all these butt change posts have come up, and I can sum it up in 3 letters.......VSS! |
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#10
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hummm...ya might be right the shortmeister....
well... I SAW THEM FIRST !!!
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PB - Hard Body A.Butcheri: 43cm Fork - Strike PRO Pygmy in XBBO & C'ultive Mirror Shad in Ayu A.Australis: 2.14kg (not measured) - Tilsan Bass in Jaffa PB - Soft Plastic A.Butcheri: 41cm Fork - Squidgy Wriggler 65mm in bloodworm / Gamakatsu 211 1/32 jig head A.Australis: 34cm fork - Squidgy Bug in Bloodworm / Squidgy Resin head
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#11
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Quote:
![]() Thanks heaps for the info too.
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Craig |
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#12
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welcome mate, and ill send you the bill !
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PB - Hard Body A.Butcheri: 43cm Fork - Strike PRO Pygmy in XBBO & C'ultive Mirror Shad in Ayu A.Australis: 2.14kg (not measured) - Tilsan Bass in Jaffa PB - Soft Plastic A.Butcheri: 41cm Fork - Squidgy Wriggler 65mm in bloodworm / Gamakatsu 211 1/32 jig head A.Australis: 34cm fork - Squidgy Bug in Bloodworm / Squidgy Resin head
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#13
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If i knew u was gunna invoice me i should've got u to put a rod on it too
![]() I think the missus would kill me if i bought a new rod
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Craig |
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#14
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and thats where my 'ill build my own' loop hole comes into the 'avoid retribution' clause of the relationship ! lol
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PB - Hard Body A.Butcheri: 43cm Fork - Strike PRO Pygmy in XBBO & C'ultive Mirror Shad in Ayu A.Australis: 2.14kg (not measured) - Tilsan Bass in Jaffa PB - Soft Plastic A.Butcheri: 41cm Fork - Squidgy Wriggler 65mm in bloodworm / Gamakatsu 211 1/32 jig head A.Australis: 34cm fork - Squidgy Bug in Bloodworm / Squidgy Resin head
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#15
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Good Idea Mate, i'll test that one out shortly
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Craig |
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