rod building tips

ben k · #1 22-03-2008, 09:46 PM

i'm looking at building my own rod, i havn't done it before and just have a few questions for anyone out there that has a bit of experience.

Q1; i have found the recomended fuji concept spacings for my chosen blank (samurai S002X), are those mesurement taken from the ring itself or front/back of the foot?

Q2; what size tread do use A or C? i will be using gudebrod NCP and a metallic for the trim.

Q3 i'm making a rotsserie, i have a motor/gearbox to do about 6rpm, is that ok?

Any help would be apreciated.

Ben.

Shortlite · #2 22-03-2008, 11:48 PM

Hi Ben,

The distances supplied with the Concept Spacing (Fuji's generic concept chart) are to the position of the ring when seated on the blank. However, it is easier to go to the front of the foot (where the guide legs start). Bear in mind that the different sizes in rings project the ring forward at different lengths. Personally I'd go with putting the ring at the target position.

Size A thread is thinner, neater than size C, and is just as strong. NCP thread doesn't require thread sealer, but IMHO looks flat, almost painted once the finish has been applied. The colour has no vibrance to it. I use regular nylon, without sealer, and get a darker, translucent colour that looks better to me. Or, use regular nylon with a good application of thread sealer. This preserves spool colour, and still looks better than NCP. Be sure to let the coat(s) of sealer dry thoroughly before applying finish.

6 rpm is fine for turning the rod to allow the epoxy fisnish to dry. You can even apply the epoxy at this speed, but it's a tad slow. I put the epoxy on while hand turning, quickly, on all the wraps, then let it sit guides up. Let the excess sag off and remove it. Then clean up your edges, and let the motor do the work from there. It is important to remove the excess so you don't get a wavy finish.

For all the help you could want and more, visit the folks on the Rodbuilding.org forum. I frequent that one too. I recommend reading the library articles: epoxy, fit and finish, New Guide concept system (you'll like that one).

Happy to answer any more questions. Hopefully some of the other builders on this board will chime in with some helpful tips for you too. Welcome to the addiction!

Ted..

ben k · #3 23-03-2008, 01:17 AM

g'day Shortlite,
thanks for the reply, more than helpful.

i was thinking of using the NCP thread so i didn't have to worry about sealer, but if it dosn't look as good i might go with the std nylon.

the other thing i was concerned about was finding the spine, it's something i need to get spot on. whats the best way?

Thanks,
Ben.

Shortlite · #4 23-03-2008, 04:11 PM

"Spine" is an effect, not a distinct property of the blank. Some blanks exhibit more of a "spine" than others. I can tell you that it really is not as significant as some make it out to be. You can build a rod on its straightest axis without problems. It's not something you "need" to get spot on.

If you are really concerned with finding the "spine", rest the butt on the ground, and support it with the palm of one hand. Using the other hand, press down halfway or so between your supporting hand and the ground. The rod will bend slightly, and you'll see and feel it roll to a position where it bends easiest. The "spine" will be the outside of that curve.

Mark M · #5 23-03-2008, 10:56 PM

Check out all the videos of rod building here Ben:

http://www.mudhole.com/Rod-Building-101

some of the links are redundant though

Mark M · #6 23-03-2008, 11:19 PM

Available from Frogleys in their Fuji rod building accessories catalogue.

"with Ian Miller and Rod Harrison (45 minutes0"

http://www.fujitackle.com.au/

ben k · #7 24-03-2008, 02:20 AM

thanks for that Shortlite.

hi Mark, thankyou for the links.

one more question for someone,
do i need to prepare (rub down with wet/dry or fine scotch brite) the surface of the blank where i am glueing me reel seat and handle? i have read on a forum that some people do and others don't.
is this nessesary?

Shortlite · #8 24-03-2008, 06:44 AM

In a word, yes. It's the basic principle of obtaining good adhesion: creating a water break free surface that the epoxy glue can "wet" out and stick to properly. Only lightly abrade th blank finish where the grips and the reel seat will go. Also rough up the inside of the seat to achieve the same strong adhesion.

When reaming the grips to fit (cork) aim for a very close fit. A thin glue line between mating surfaces is stronger. With the seat, a bushing or arbor will be needed to support the seat and keep the blank centered. Masking tape, cork, urethane foam arbors can all be used. The best would be a full length urethane arbor (Flex Coat seat arbor) sized to fit the seat.

ben k · #9 25-03-2008, 03:19 AM

thanks again Shortlite, i think most of my questions about actually building the rod have been answered, now iv'e just got to make sure i order the right stuff, ATM i'm trying to make sense of what i'm doing with the reel seat/grip.

i'm going the easy way (i hope

) with the grip/real seat. I'm pretty sure frogley's do a IPS reel seat/split grip kit to suit the S002x blank, just got to make sure whether to get that one as i will be cutting the butt down if the blank is over 7'.
i want it 7' (ish) and the website says the S002x is a 7 footer yet the catalog (that shops have) says it is a 7'5"

i'll have to do my homework on that one, unless anyone out there has experience with these blanks.
otherwise frogleys have these kits available in whatever dia you need

"Kit contains front and rear cork grips, cork butt cap, metallic blue winding check and 16mm reel seat. Please advise of the size winding check required once you have worked out your grip configuration. Winding check sizes are: 8mm - 12mm in 0.5mm increments. Specifically designed to suit Samurai spin blanks and can be adapted to other blanks but this is limited to the winding check sizes available."

i suppose if i cut down the butt i will need to know the dia to get the suitable grip

Ben.

Hotrods · #10 25-03-2008, 03:26 AM

your right it IS a 7'5 blank, no issues cutting it to 7' though, done it a few times...
when you order the kit just get who ever is ordering it in for you to let the boys know that you will be cutting the 002 to 7' and they can measure the blank where needed to fit the checks...i would do it for you now BUT i dont actally have a 7' here ATM only a 6'6, sorry.
i think from Memory the kit for the 7' 001 blanks fits perfectly to the cut 7' 002...

Cheers ME

BlackBreamer · #11 25-03-2008, 08:33 AM

Make sure you binde the guides firmly and grind down or file the edges of the feet especially if your using A thread.. Love A thread for bream gear wouldn't use C but for a beginer it may be a tad easier..Also have a look here www.visualwrap.com

Shortlite · #12 25-03-2008, 10:23 AM

Basic Rod Builder's Guide.... with Ian sat in front of a renzetti rod lathe.....heaps basic, ahahahaha!

ben k · #13 26-03-2008, 05:49 AM

g'day Hotrods, thanks for that.

Blackbreamer - by that you mean to just take any burrs off so it doesn't damage the blank / thread?
what about if the guides have a coating on them?

thanks,
ben.

Shortlite · #14 26-03-2008, 07:35 AM

Yes Ben, that's exactly it. The downside to that is that any coating is usually removed. This may show through the thread when finish is applied, especially if you don't use sealer.
Guide foot prep needs to be well done to prevent epoxy cracking later in life.

Hotrods · #15 26-03-2008, 07:39 AM

2nd to that if you are using black thread for an overbind you can simply re coat the ground section of the foot with a blank texta...