Spinning reel greases

[Bronco T]

Originally Posted by snagsbream

Couple more questions - where can I get mx6 in the tub Slazmo? Also is the 400g tube that same stuff? It doesn't look like Whitworths stock anything but the 30ml tube.

Can I order it online, as well as the mx5 oil? And where can I get the Mercury 2-4-C as I might get some for the old man.

Finally, what do you use to strip and clean all parts? So far I've tried White Spirit which seems ok

Mate you can get a lot of greases suitable for bearings and reels in general from ABC bearing stores, that's were I got mine MX6 tub they have other Inox products as well, and of course Bearings.

[Slazmo]

Originally Posted by jgarner447

Very good explanation even i can understand that

Exactly what BJ said

My new speaking deciphering guide dog

Was at work so couldn't reply. Also this site still glitches on my phone bad!

[snagsbream]

Originally Posted by Slazmo

Exactly what BJ said

My new speaking deciphering guide dog

Was at work so couldn't reply. Also this site still glitches on my phone bad!

Has been glitching on my phone too, but only for the last few days or so...one week maximum. Perhaps something changed. Mods/devs any ideas?

Originally Posted by Bronco T

Mate you can get a lot of greases suitable for bearings and reels in general from ABC bearing stores, that's were I got mine MX6 tub they have other Inox products as well, and of course Bearings.

Originally Posted by t303

MX6 tubs should be available at all the bearing places (eg CBC) but they often have to order it in.
cheers
Steve

Cheers guys, I'll look up these stores.

Any preferences for stripping parts? White Spirit alright?

[Bronco T]

Originally Posted by snagsbream

Has been glitching on my phone too, but only for the last few days or so...one week maximum. Perhaps something changed. Mods/devs any ideas?





Cheers guys, I'll look up these stores.

Any preferences for stripping parts? White Spirit alright?

Yeah I use shellite, same as white spirit it does the job.

[snagsbream]

Beauty thanks mate

[Slazmo]

Originally Posted by Bronco T

Yeah I use shellite, same as white spirit it does the job.

Shellite has minute traces of benzine... That's in the MSDS I read while at work from Diggers brand.

Cheers.

P.s. Benzine causes Cancer...

[Bronco T]

Originally Posted by Slazmo

Shellite has minute traces of benzine... That's in the MSDS I read while at work from Diggers brand.

Cheers.

What do you use Slazmo?

[Carey]

Originally Posted by Slazmo

Don't use MX8 grease on aluminium based gears. Brass to be ass and planetary gears.

MX6 on lighter gear sets including idler gears eg: line guide on bait casters. Plastic to Plastic is ideal for this grease as its a bonefied rubber grease - I am finding that using this on Shimano 'Septone' rubber handles is not getting any reactions so far. So I am not using any oil in the whole assembly. This MX6 from the tubes is far better for drags (wet stacks) than the MX6 from the tub as its a little more oily, than the claggy MX6 from the tub.

MX6 from the tub (Different NLGI than MX6 in the tube) on light reels eg: 1000 size or for those wanting light handle winding performance. Also great for all plumbing needs around the house!!! But this aint a plumbing forum.

And I wouldn't touch Cals. Don't know what's in it and they won't say. Seen it dry up, unlike other greases. I asked Cal's for a MSDS or a Product Spec sheet and they just kept palming me off and there is nothing I cand find about it. If someone doesnt want to divulge info its either dodgy or dangerous?

Havent needed or seen the need for Corrosion X, some other forums rave on about this product however I run the mantra that 'if you look after your gear and service it periodically no corrosion should form'. However a large majority of Inox products have a special anti corrosive product in there from factory.

Oil's Inox MX3 (Inc Food Grade), FG oil doesnt have the smell that Inox MX3 has so may be better to use for those that dont want to run the risk of the aromatics getting onto their line and hands and lures and other body parts etc. Inox MX5 which is MX3FG with Teflon - this is the best gear by test for my self servicing over the years, I made a special bearing mix while there - stuff is pretty good. And then I made a Inox base oil with nickel as a special anti seize mixture.

As a generalist grease I am still standing by Mercury 2-4-C as this gear is tacky and a true to name marine grease that I can thin down at my own leisure to form whatever NLGI I see fit for application.

Keep it simple - no secret skunk business in reel servicing - its all in the build.

Cheers.

Slazmo, I love you.

Don't ever leave (again).

[Slazmo]

Nearly forgot to reply to this one.

Originally Posted by t303

Just a note for anyone uncomfortable using MX8 on aluminium gearing, check the label or TDS on 2-4-C before you buy it for this purpose as I think it may also be a lithium base grease.Steve

I was at Inox for a while (head office, place that packages the grease and oils etc) doing my own research into a few things fishing wise while there. Now while speaking to the technical guy Marc, he couldnt give me a definative 'yes / no' go ahead and safely use the MX8 on Aluminium parts. Whereas the 2-4-C is safe to use on Aluminium parts by test from Mercury and by test of my own use.

Now if you want to go ahead and say yes MX8 is safe to use of Aluminium parts like Shaft slides, drive gears and the like please do so, but be warned if a gear set starts to pit thats your head on the chopping block! This isnt from MX8 but another spurious lithium based grease that I trialled Daiwa Exceller Teardown - 20130911 (7).JPG

Other than that MX8 is great to use on Brass to Brass and Stainless to Stainless straight cut gears and the like, fantastic adhesion and tackifiers that make this grease stay put. I love to use it in my baitcast reels as a little lasts so damn long unlike other greases - doesnt wash out or dry up. Should see it in a 44 gal drum "Oh lawdy".

Originally Posted by Bronco T

What do you use Slazmo?

I use a liquid engine degreaser for all metal parts including bearings, I find that this is the most efficient cleaner I can get easily enough and in volume to wash down parts... Its just a clear degreaser and doesnt foam like other degreasers do.

I have in the past used environmentally sensitive degreasers like Orange Clean etc - but found their performance lacklustre. This was in the bike game - didnt break down lithium based greases (white) nor the crap that looks like the Shimano grease that came in the hubs (bearings).

Whatever you do please dont use vibrantly coloured degreaser - using these on white or lightly coloured body outers can stain them... Anyone for a baby pink Stradic FJ???

I clean the inner body with spray degreaser and lightly scrub (dislodge and break down grease inside) with a pig's hair brush and clean out with copious amounts of soapy water and then rewash with clean water, shake vigorously excess water and leave to dry.

Originally Posted by Carey

Slazmo, I love you. Don't ever leave (again).

Sh*t getting weird or what lol... I'll try to stay. All depends on what goes on in life. Had a pretty hard couple of months prior. It went pear-shaped then, so now doing my own thing.

[snagsbream]

I took apart a 2004 sized Daiwa and checked out the bearings. They were all good except the main bearing under the rotor. I noticed the grease there seemed to be thicker or tackier than on other bearings eg handle and line roller.

What can I use here? Does that Mercury stuff fit the bill?
Cheers

[Slazmo]

Originally Posted by snagsbream

Does that Mercury stuff fit the bill?

Yes, you can thin it down with the MX3 or MX5 in which I do all the time. Dependant on how slow or fast you want your bearings to operate. Its all in the feel when you rebuild. '

Pack your bearings full and they'll run slow, fill them 1/4 way (clock face 12pm to 3pm) either side and one to two drops of choice oil and amalgamate with shields off (run through fingers / rotate)... Then repack grease that spins to the edge and inner and put the shields back on with the clips.

Thats my way about bearings

[t303]

Originally Posted by Slazmo

Nearly forgot to reply to this one.



This isnt from MX8 but another spurious lithium based grease that I trialled Attachment 101262

Other than that MX8 is great to use on Brass to Brass and Stainless to Stainless straight cut gears and the like, fantastic adhesion and tackifiers that make this grease stay put. I love to use it in my baitcast reels as a little lasts so damn long unlike other greases - doesnt wash out or dry up. Should see it in a 44 gal drum "Oh lawdy".

Hi Slazmo, was that pitting and staining from a marine grease or an automotive type grease, can you recall? Also was there any salt intrusion involved?
I also noted you have mentioned an acid wash? I use Lyman cartridge cleaner (citric acid) in the US cleaner to brighten up gears, but you have to watch the length of time you soak in any acid (eg, never hours or overnight) as you can remove metals like zinc or copper and change the composition and embrittle the brass. Ammonia is a no-no, Sweets 7.62 is the best barrel cleaner out there: it eats these metals because it has so much ammonia in it.
cheers
Steve

[Slazmo]

Originally Posted by t303

Hi Slazmo, was that pitting and staining from a marine grease or an automotive type grease, can you recall? Also was there any salt intrusion involved?

Lithium base, hobby / sport type grease (never automotive), no water intrusion as the grease was new...

Seen this also with molybdenum disulphide greases where the Aluminium Alloy literally disintegrates over time. This on a Abu Garcia cardinal Pro main drive gear pitted like swiss cheese - this back in the day (never got a photo of it).

Originally Posted by t303

I also noted you have mentioned an acid wash? I use Lyman cartridge cleaner (citric acid) in the US cleaner to brighten up gears, but you have to watch the length of time you soak in any acid (eg, never hours or overnight) as you can remove metals like zinc or copper and change the composition and embrittle the brass.

Minimum 5 minutes and maximum 10 minutes and then I stop the process with a basic solution to neutralise the acid reaction.

I am brightening the brass to a usable platform and then polishing it from there, citric acid doesnt get the reaction that I like and I do not wish to wait for the solution to eat into the brass on the clean side when its taking its sweet time on the dirty side... My solution is a exact process that I have learnt from a close friend that has been doing this for 25 years, who is also a ex marine heavy diesel engineer from the Aus Navy.

DSCF8740.JPGDSCF8749.JPGDSCF8761.JPG

Nothing spooky about the process - just trusted enough to get results without tears...

[t303]

Originally Posted by Slazmo

Lithium base, hobby / sport type grease (never automotive), no water intrusion as the grease was new...

Seen this also with molybdenum disulphide greases where the Aluminium Alloy literally disintegrates over time. This on a Abu Garcia cardinal Pro main drive gear pitted like swiss cheese - this back in the day (never got a photo of it).



Minimum 5 minutes and maximum 10 minutes and then I stop the process with a basic solution to neutralise the acid reaction.

I am brightening the brass to a usable platform and then polishing it from there, citric acid doesnt get the reaction that I like and I do not wish to wait for the solution to eat into the brass on the clean side when its taking its sweet time on the dirty side... My solution is a exact process that I have learnt from a close friend that has been doing this for 25 years, who is also a ex marine heavy diesel engineer from the Aus Navy.

Attachment 101309Attachment 101311Attachment 101310

Nothing spooky about the process - just trusted enough to get results without tears...

Certainly gives a good result!

[snagsbream]

Originally Posted by Slazmo

Yes, you can thin it down with the MX3 or MX5 in which I do all the time. Dependant on how slow or fast you want your bearings to operate. Its all in the feel when you rebuild. '

Pack your bearings full and they'll run slow, fill them 1/4 way (clock face 12pm to 3pm) either side and one to two drops of choice oil and amalgamate with shields off (run through fingers / rotate)... Then repack grease that spins to the edge and inner and put the shields back on with the clips.

Thats my way about bearings

Thanks mate, really helpful post. I've used MX6 in the tube which is all I had available, but looking forward to doing it again soon with a tackier grease and use the formula above.

That polished brass looks beautiful mate