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View Poll Results: Which line lay do you prefer
A - Even 19 86.36%
B - Top Heavy 0 0%
C - Bottom heavy 1 4.55%
D - dont care 2 9.09%
Voters: 22. You may not vote on this poll

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  #16  
Old 02-06-2019, 07:11 AM
grizzo grizzo is offline
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Hi. You can do it with any reel as long as you can change the washers under the spool. You add or take away the washers to adjust the height of the spool. Shimano and Daiwa reels come with spare washers for this reason.
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  #17  
Old 02-06-2019, 06:02 PM
grizzo grizzo is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yellow door 1 View Post
Yeah thats an interesting theory. Does your spool need to be specifically designed to handle this taper or can you do it with any reel.


And do you have any pics of your spools?

My spools look like the line lay on the Stradic above that the guy said he wants to change.
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  #18  
Old 03-06-2019, 03:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grizzo View Post
My spools look like the line lay on the Stradic above that the guy said he wants to change.
Yeah I pulled an old tierra out of hibernation the other day - I think this might be pushing things a bit too far
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  #19  
Old 07-06-2019, 04:54 AM
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Managed to get a few casts in today and viola...

IMG_20190608_195459.jpg

Line lay exactly how I want it. Care of a very thin profiling washer...
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Last edited by Slazmo; 08-06-2019 at 06:45 AM.
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  #20  
Old 07-06-2019, 05:01 AM
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Originally Posted by Slazmo View Post
Managed to get a few casts in today and viola...

Line lay exactly how I want it. Care of a very thin profiling washer...
Yeah that looks spot on - nice one
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  #21  
Old 08-06-2019, 07:48 PM
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Was out on the bay yesterday and the best way to find out if your set up is prone to wind knots, is to hand it to a 14 year old who's never used lures.

There were 4 of us casting and noone got a single wind knot, except this young lad who got heaps - They were all my out fits and I'd bumped up the jighead head weight to 1/4 ounce, hoping this would alleviate a few problems.

(ie casting distance, feel and wind knots.)

He was using one of my second string out fits, with a cheap ABU on it. Upon inspection, it may not have been his fault.

The reel had a pronounced bottom heavy taper - and I reckon this may have contributed to his problems. There was another 14 year old out there with similar casting and retrieve style -

(ie loopy, all over the place and very little attention paid to retrieving slack line onto the reel)

But he didnt get any wind knots.

I ended up giving the problem child my outfit and he successfully lasted the rest of the day without a wind knot.

I've taken a spacer out, slightly under spooled it and now it is laying line as it should - hopefully this makes it "14 year old proof"
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Last edited by yellow door 1; 08-06-2019 at 08:03 PM.
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  #22  
Old 08-06-2019, 08:08 PM
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p.s. - also remembered why sunnies are important when fishing with Newbs in a confined space - I took a 1/4 ounce to the left lens

Best $11 I ever spent
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Last edited by yellow door 1; 08-06-2019 at 08:15 PM.
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  #23  
Old 09-06-2019, 05:32 AM
grizzo grizzo is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slazmo View Post
Managed to get a few casts in today and viola...

Attachment 115002

Line lay exactly how I want it. Care of a very thin profiling washer...

I think you said you prefer straight earlier. That still looks a little top heavy to me.
Lots of people said the like straight or even but no reason for why?
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  #24  
Old 09-06-2019, 06:21 AM
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I aim for even because in my mind - thats where the least friction occurs while casting. Because a full spool casts further than a half empty one - why have the bottom of you spool emptier than the top or vice versa

With a top heavy taper, you have small loops trying to get over big loops. This line has to climb over and rub on the other line to get off the spool.

I also wonder about the deceleration and acceleration during casting, ie line coming off easy from the top of the spool - then a bit harder from the shallow end - then easy again.

Top heavy tapers also significantly decrease a standard spools line carrying capacity.

Bottom heavy tapers seem to offer the biggest hurdle for the line to jump over while casting.

Last edited by yellow door 1; 09-06-2019 at 06:29 AM.
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  #25  
Old 09-06-2019, 06:42 AM
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With the Shimano spools and the "propulsion" design - when the line is being pulled off the spool the lip is lifting the line off the laid portion of the spool.

IMG_20190609_202851.jpg

Only if there is slack line wound onto the spool you could imagine that pulled working line (that exiting off the spool) could pull off loose plaits of line off the spool as its coming off the spool at a rate of knots. (now that's a lot of "off" used badly)...

I think wind knots (depends on what it is exactly) - those pricks that twist and braid around tip and downward from that guide are a different animal where as the choke and line control is main issue imho.

Ive tried a couple of different line tapers but line management is key in all respects, also choosing the right rod for the reel is pretty important.

For me straight up and down regardless of reel is where I stand.
IMG_20190609_203530.jpg

But fishing and enjoying it is more importanter*...
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  #26  
Old 09-06-2019, 07:12 AM
grizzo grizzo is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yellow door 1 View Post
I aim for even because in my mind - thats where the least friction occurs while casting. Because a full spool casts further than a half empty one - why have the bottom of you spool emptier than the top or vice versa

With a top heavy taper, you have small loops trying to get over big loops. This line has to climb over and rub on the other line to get off the spool.

I also wonder about the deceleration and acceleration during casting, ie line coming off easy from the top of the spool - then a bit harder from the shallow end - then easy again.

Top heavy tapers also significantly decrease a standard spools line carrying capacity.

Bottom heavy tapers seem to offer the biggest hurdle for the line to jump over while casting.
As long as your line is wound under the spool lip as it should be, it doesn’t matter what taper you have, the only rubbing that will happen during casting is on the lip ONLY.

With the acceleration deceleration theory, this will happen worse with a straight taper because as from my earlier post reasons, the line at the top near the lip has a harder time to come off than the line down Lower.
Tapered more at the top evens out the “acceleration” to be the same. That was my reason for preferring a top heavy taper.
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  #27  
Old 09-06-2019, 07:28 AM
grizzo grizzo is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slazmo View Post

For me straight up and down regardless of reel is where I stand.
Attachment 115007

..
You haven’t said why.
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  #28  
Old 09-06-2019, 07:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grizzo View Post
As long as your line is wound under the spool lip as it should be, it doesn’t matter what taper you have, the only rubbing that will happen during casting is on the lip ONLY.

With the acceleration deceleration theory, this will happen worse with a straight taper because as from my earlier post reasons, the line at the top near the lip has a harder time to come off than the line down Lower.
Tapered more at the top evens out the “acceleration” to be the same. That was my reason for preferring a top heavy taper.
Aaah its starting to sink in now - thanks
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  #29  
Old 09-06-2019, 08:13 AM
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Have a geez at the way these distance casting reels lay line.

I had a quick look at google - all the manufacturers seem to design their spools with a bottom heavy taper but very different line lay to normal reels

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  #30  
Old 09-06-2019, 08:27 AM
grizzo grizzo is offline
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Originally Posted by yellow door 1 View Post
Aaah its starting to sink in now - thanks
That’s the way I see it anyway, looking at the angles the line comes off the reel.
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