4 rods from megabass?

[stella fella]

So here's the deal. I have come to the conclusion that i "need" four new megabass rods for breaming/bassing. I want two ultra light rods around 2-6/2-8lb, and two heavier rods around 3-10lb. I want one rod for plastics and one for hards in each given line class, and am after any advice on which rods would be best for what I want.

Cheers Nick

[kaleido]

Originally Posted by stella fella

So here's the deal. I have come to the conclusion that i "need" four new megabass rods for breaming/bassing. I want two ultra light rods around 2-6/2-8lb, and two heavier rods around 3-10lb. I want one rod for plastics and one for hards in each given line class, and am after any advice on which rods would be best for what I want.

Cheers Nick

Racing Condition F2-610XSRC
Destroyer Phase-3 F2-66XS
Destroyer Phase-3 F0-68XS
Kirisame F1-69XKS

[The G factor]

Originally Posted by kaleido

Racing Condition F2-610XSRC
Destroyer Phase-3 F2-66XS
Destroyer Phase-3 F0-68XS
Kirisame F1-69XKS

do what he says

[stella fella]

Originally Posted by kaleido

Racing Condition F2-610XSRC
Destroyer Phase-3 F2-66XS
Destroyer Phase-3 F0-68XS
Kirisame F1-69XKS

So far they are the exact rods on my list
Given the power rating I'm guessing the racing condition and kirisame are more suited to plastics?
The other rod I was looking at is the orochiX4 F1-70X4S, which, given it's power rating, I thought might be more suited to HB's, apposed to the Destroyer Phase-3 F2-66XS?

Cheers Nick

[The G factor]

im guessing by "power rating"you are referring to its line class.

You have to be careful when talking about these terms, as thinking that a 1-3kg stick is good for hards because its only 1-3kg will not be correct all of the time.

The line rating is a good indicator as to what line/drag to use, and it should correspond to what lure weights are suitable. However, when talking about what types of lures to use ( hards or plastics) then you need to look at the action/taper of the rod.

A classic hard body rod will have a slower taper than a plastics rod, reason being you want it to load up as the fish grabs it so you dont rip trebles. A plastic rod should have a faster taper so that you can flick plastics and work them easier. Trying to do this with a slow rod is hard and inefficient.

The racing condition is definitely suited to plastics, as it has a very fast taper.

So if I was you and wanted to try out some new rods, I would find out what their taper/action is like first. To put it into a breaming perspective, a nitro powerbream is rated to 1-3kg but has a very soft tip suited to hards, but a lox yoshi 1-3kg has a fast taper and stiffer tip which is more suited to plastics. Always use all available information before choosing a rod, dont just look at line weight, cast weight, action etc, look at them ALL together.

Cheers

[stella fella]

Originally Posted by The G factor

im guessing by "power rating"you are referring to its line class.

You have to be careful when talking about these terms, as thinking that a 1-3kg stick is good for hards because its only 1-3kg will not be correct all of the time.

The line rating is a good indicator as to what line/drag to use, and it should correspond to what lure weights are suitable. However, when talking about what types of lures to use ( hards or plastics) then you need to look at the action/taper of the rod.

A classic hard body rod will have a slower taper than a plastics rod, reason being you want it to load up as the fish grabs it so you dont rip trebles. A plastic rod should have a faster taper so that you can flick plastics and work them easier. Trying to do this with a slow rod is hard and inefficient.

The racing condition is definitely suited to plastics, as it has a very fast taper.

So if I was you and wanted to try out some new rods, I would find out what their taper/action is like first. To put it into a breaming perspective, a nitro powerbream is rated to 1-3kg but has a very soft tip suited to hards, but a lox yoshi 1-3kg has a fast taper and stiffer tip which is more suited to plastics. Always use all available information before choosing a rod, dont just look at line weight, cast weight, action etc, look at them ALL together.

Cheers

I do understand the relationship between the action of a rod and it's intended use but thanks for going to the trouble of explaining it anyway, much appreciated
However Megabass use a different power rating system, which isn't directly related to line class/weight, but rather the parabolic curve of the rod. For example a rod rated F0 will have a slower action making it better suited to HB's, whereas a rod rated to F3 will have a faster action.

Cheers Nick

[kaleido]

Originally Posted by stella fella

I do understand the relationship between the action of a rod and it's intended use but thanks for going to the trouble of explaining it anyway, much appreciated
However Megabass use a different power rating system, which isn't directly related to line class/weight, but rather the parabolic curve of the rod. For example a rod rated F0 will have a slower action making it better suited to HB's, whereas a rod rated to F3 will have a faster action.

Cheers Nick

The F rating on a Megabass rod is its force rating.
Meaning the power of the rod. It has nothing to do with the action of the rod.

Bream weight rods are normally F0 or F1
Bass are normally F2 or F3

[spoonta66]

Originally Posted by stella fella

The other rod I was looking at is the orochiX4 F1-70X4S, which, given it's power rating, I thought might be more suited to HB's, apposed to the Destroyer Phase-3 F2-66XS?
Cheers Nick

Stunning rod, I had two at one stage, loved them to bits, pity they are one peice but if that isnt a problem I would rate them higher than the kirisame!

[Stealth]

Sorry to derail thread slightly, but would the 7 foot 2 piece kirisame make a decent allround bream rod? Plastics, small hard bodies etc..?

A. There is no better rod then a Kirisame 69XKS...
B. There is no 7tf Kirisame. The longest is the 6'9". Awesome all round rod.
C. Look into the shoreluck 6'9". Awesomely light action. nice rod for both sp's and hb's.

I also have a lyacon Competition. Cast further than 7'8" rods that i have used. but it is a 1 piece rod.

[The G factor]

Originally Posted by brimia

A. There is no better rod then a Kirisame 69XKS...
B. There is no 7tf Kirisame. The longest is the 6'9". Awesome all round rod.
C. Look into the shoreluck 6'9". Awesomely light action. nice rod for both sp's and hb's.

I also have a lyacon Competition. Cast further than 7'8" rods that i have used. but it is a 1 piece rod.

i dont see it in the top 10

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OGJ86LbjJUs

Originally Posted by stella fella

So I have come to the conclusion that i "need" four new megabass rods Cheers Nick

No Fella, you do not "NEED" 4 new megabass rods. You "NEED" 8 new megabass rods..

HAHA ugly sticks!

Did my dad write up that list?

[The G factor]

nah i think it was my dad...he loves his jarvis walker crap.

Also Stella Boy, brimia has a point. Buy 8 and give 4 to me, i think thats the right thing to do

[stella fella]

Originally Posted by kaleido

The F rating on a Megabass rod is its force rating.
Meaning the power of the rod. It has nothing to do with the action of the rod.

Bream weight rods are normally F0 or F1
Bass are normally F2 or F3

I'm confused.. From what I understood, the lower the force rating, the more parabolic the rod would be? could you explain it to me better? I don't understand how the 2-6lb kirisame, which is an F1, can have a greater power rating than the 2-8lb destroyer, which is an F0