Product to seal ply

[parmo]

im replacing all the deck in my hornet trophy, going to use qwik grip to glue the carpet down but I'm wondering if people seal the marine ply before this and what they use?
I would like to try and seal it first as my casting deck and floor often get wet and don't really dry out that well for various reasons.

[macca33]

When I did mine, I simply used commercial varnish - 2-3 coats (cannot remember exactly) and it worked fine. I used ordinary hardware store plywood, not specific marine plywood.

cheers

[Partizan Fk]

I was reading on the net even marine ply needs to be sealed some day just on the edge some say the whole lot.
And to use an epoxy first coat just to absorb in the wood and the second for the final seal.

[sexton]

Didn't seal mine and it seems to be fine.

[thecheif]

use uniboard waterproof dosnt rot just doing my hornet now

[Beans]

An old boat builder told me this trick.
Use a good quality exterior house paint all over the plywood boards before gluing the carpet down.(I used White)
Make sure you apply a good coat or two on the end grain of the boards as well.
I used a roller to cover the boards and a small brush to do the edges.
Allow it to fully dry before gluing the carpet down(a week or so).
Also make sure you have clean sanded boards before application of the paint.
Preparation is key to the best adhesion.
I did this and so far its been there 18 years and going strong without a hint of deterioration.
I fully wash my entire boat/decks with carpet after each trip as well.
There are probably better products around now but this is what has worked for me.

[parmo]

Was thinking of just using a lacquer, the paint sounds like a good idea but having the boat off the water for an extra week doesn't..

[mr perch]

I used decking oil on ply (not marine ply) and when i sold the boat 7 years later it was still perfect

[aussiematrix]

When I did mine I just used Wattle Solar Guard and worked fine. To get it cheaper I went to my local hardware store to see if they had mixed tins that they did for someone and it was the wrong colour. You will get it cheap most shops have a few cans of stuffed up orders. Got my 4L tin half price.


Aussiematrix

[BOOMBOOM4216]

Originally Posted by aussiematrix

When I did mine I just used Wattle Solar Guard and worked fine. Aussiematrix

Wattyl Solarguard has a ability to respire, which can let moisture both ways into and out of the timber. Its a acrylic based paint and my Valspar / Wattyl rep says not to use it - but I have spoken to the batch plant producers and they're not going to say 'yes' to using it in a marine environment either. A 1 part epoxy (tarted up metal worthy enamel) would be a better choice with that painted over a enamel exterior pink primer, would be a better choice.

Originally Posted by mr perch

I used decking oil on ply (not marine ply) and when i sold the boat 7 years later it was still perfect

Oil tends to run out, however can be reapplied and may assist in electrolysis issues sub floor.

Originally Posted by parmo

Was thinking of just using a lacquer

Lacquer / varnish eventually breaks down and or becomes brittle, and has to be reapplied periodically. Even marine grade eg: Cuprinol, Wattyl, Helmsman etc will break down with environmental stressors on it all eg: heat, moisture, salt, flex etc. God help people that use a decking grade varnish on their decks, its a nightmare to recoat!

I think running a epoxy over it and letting it sink into the fibers seems to be the norm. The guys at Nuplex composites at the Gold Coast marina say that its best practice to apply a clat of that to the face and the cut edges and let it go off. I asked around with a few of the other guys and they also did that with casting decks, so thats what I will also do...

[todd88]

Thin down vynl ester resin with acetone. Thinning it down allows it to soak into the timber. Second option is product called everdure. I'm a boat builder an that's what we use

[BOOMBOOM4216]

Originally Posted by todd88

Thin down vynl ester resin with acetone. Thinning it down allows it to soak into the timber. Second option is product called everdure. I'm a boat builder an that's what we use

Any idea the ratio of vinyl ester resin to acetone that you use/d? Everdure is wayyy to expensive either as a 1ltr or a 4ltr total Part A & B option!

[NORDY]

I would recommend two options.

Cheapest
General Purpose Fibre Glass Resin thinned a little with Acetone.
Brush that in all over paying particular attention to the end grains.
Apply 2 to 3 coats.

More expensive option.
Epoxy Resin Ie Boatcote.
Same deal Mix your epoxy then apply two full coats again soaking any end grains throughly etc. Epoxy dry time is slow compared to General Purpose Fibre Glass Resin.

Regards Nordy

[BOOMBOOM4216]

Originally Posted by NORDY

I would recommend two options.

Cheapest
General Purpose Fibre Glass Resin thinned a little with Acetone.
Brush that in all over paying particular attention to the end grains.
Apply 2 to 3 coats.

Regards Nordy

Nordy,

Whats that "thinned" down ratio? Eg: 2:1 or just by eye? If it looks watery that should do it and just slap it on wet like?

[todd88]

There's no set ratio, to the consistency of say milk I guess. It will cure no matter how thin you make it. If want make the 1st coat the thinnest then apply a thicker coat over the top, it will help it really soak in and seal it. We use a ply called E Lite (light weight) and it takes a few coats being more porous