What to look for when testing a boat ????

[ausbill]

Just writing myself a list of things to check when testing a new boat this coming week end. A fellow fisher agreed to join me as head test pilot, me being the expert boater I am.

The fitout and seating are to my spec's, so it is more the on water handling.
Here's my list so far, any additions or suggestions would be welcome.

Thanks
Bill

* Launch

* Cruise speed

* High speed run

* Low speed run

* What speed does it plane at?

* Run into swell

* Run before swell

* Along the troughs

* At an angle to swell, run before

* At an angle to swell, run into

* Turns

* How dry/wet?

* Stablity at rest

* Retrieve

* Cross chop

* Hole shot

[Choppy]

Ausbill,

Don't know if you think this all that important but, it may be a good idea to see how well the boat handles weight transfer during travel.
Maybe also how the different weigth distributions affect the boat getting up on a plane. It will make life easier when loading the boat in the future.

Cheers
Choppy

Into all onboard systems.

Engine:

Does it rev to manufacturers specified WOT rpms? (i.e is it over propped or underpropped?)

Bilge syslems:

All thru hulls double clamped with smoothwalled mesh reinforced double skin clear pipe?

All bilge pipes to be fitted with riser loops (to prevent back siphoning)

All below water thru hulls to be bronze or 316 stainless

All below water thru hulls to be fitted with a seacock.

Manual Whale Gusher backup bilge pump fitted?

High water alarm?

Spare bungs

Wooden tapered dowell plugs (to fit below water thru hulls).

Electrical systems:.

Running lights, anchor light, masthead light, stern light, cockpit lights, cabin lights, dash gauge lights backlit compass light etc etc
trailer lights

Electronics:

Sounder
GPS
Bilge pump
Radio (Music type?)

Safety:

PFD's
Fire Exrtinguisher
Epirb
Flares
V sheet
Drogue
Water rations
Two Way Marine Band Radio

Navigation:
Compass
Deviation table for compass
GPS
Radar

Anchoring
2 x sand anchors
1 x reef pick
Enough rope for each to match 3 times the depth of deepest water anticipated to be fished in.
Eyes spilced into anchor rode.
Shackles attaching anchors to be moused closed with stainless steel wire.

Hull:

GRP thickness and construction - i.e. is it to specification - were isothalmic resins used does it have woven rovings or multidirectional fibre scrim or is it a chopergun boat made entirely off the gun with CSM..(chopped strand matt)

Are all cleats hawse pipes and bollards fitted with large metal backing plates (to stop them tearing their screws out of the glass at the very worst possible time when you need them NOT to fail?

Wooden transom and stringers - are they water saturated - rotted cracked loose?..

Any blisters in the hull glass?

Alloy - look for Metal grade and thickness and weld strength placement etc

You can continue with your own list of "systems" on the vessel...
but if you go thru each of the mission critical systems that must WORK on a boat for it to be fully functional - then pretty much you SHOULD cover everything.

Alternatively - you could employ someone (like me) who actually knows what they are looking at, to 'survey' the vessel for you and to identify all it's strengths and weaknesses in a written report.

A vessel surveyor would report in writing on all the aspects on each critical system within the boat.

You can get an idea of what a professional boat surveyor would look for by reading David Pascoes web site....

http://www.yachsurvey.com

The $ spent getting a professional appraisal by a surveyor maybe the best $ you ever spend on any hull - even a new one.

In the USA it's not uncommon for finance co's to not lend for a new (and especially 2nd hand) boat purchase, or insurers to cover these boats without a written surveyors report.

That hasn't happened in WA yet - but no doubt It will one day.

Cheers!

[ausbill]

Thanks Guys

Trouty, you have certainly supplied food for thought.

Bill