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  #46  
Old 30-05-2005, 06:28 AM
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from my experience most brushs leave a few hairs here and there,if your really serious it may be worth considering buying an airbrush,stroke free,hair free,clean lines.
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  #47  
Old 30-05-2005, 07:35 AM
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Yer i want a mini air brush set but i dunno how much im expecting to pay for one.
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  #48  
Old 30-05-2005, 07:40 AM
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i think 400 would set u up with everything aswell as a few paints,dont quote me though.
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  #49  
Old 30-05-2005, 09:28 AM
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I have a air compresser but all i need is a actual fitting and the paints.
I might think about getting a mini hobby compressor kit with the air brush fitting if they are cheap enough though because dads compressor is rather big and hard to get to.
Bream Addict how do you know the price if you dont mind me asking or are you taking a wild guess?
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  #50  
Old 31-05-2005, 08:49 AM
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Dagga if you have the compressor and you just want to paint lures you only need a single action cheap arse airbrush. Since you mostly paint the luresstripes, spots etc with stencils.

You can get them from bunnings or super cheap auto for under 30 bucks.

As far as paint goes any water based acrylic should be fine since your sealing them with a clear coat (I hope).

I've been trying a bunch of paints and the best I've found so far is almost the cheapest as well.

Its called Reeves Acrylic, comes in a tube and is to thick to spray straight up. Reeves is stocked by Lincraft and Sometiimes Riot art Stores. The price is the best part 3.35 for a 75ml tube.

Its water based Dave so you just thin the paste with small amounts of water until its the right texture to spray.

Last edited by the_hide; 31-05-2005 at 09:00 AM.
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  #51  
Old 31-05-2005, 11:13 PM
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i could be completely wrong,but wouldnt u be better off using an ioil based paint?because,if any water gets through the clear sealant coat it wouldnt run nearly as badly as water based,just a thought,ba.
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  #52  
Old 01-06-2005, 05:08 AM
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oil-based paints are more expensive and take FAR longer to dry. I'd just stick with the water based plants (acrylics don't usually run if they come in contact with water AFTER drying anyway), and be careful with the clear coating.
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  #53  
Old 01-06-2005, 07:01 AM
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Have a look at Warhammer paints, David, test some of them out tehy coem in cool colours, but I don't know if they coincide with water well. JMO
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  #54  
Old 01-06-2005, 07:32 AM
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They'd work just great, nice and thin but losing no colour for it. They're a little bit expensive though, that's the only problem.
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  #55  
Old 01-06-2005, 07:43 AM
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Hate to birst your bubble guys but thats exactly what i use and trust me it aint that thin but i spose a few drops of water added and it will apply nicely!
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  #56  
Old 01-06-2005, 08:11 AM
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dagga,warhammer paint isnt meant to be applied un-diluted,just put a dab on a mixing tray and add water to ur liking to make it as thin or thick as u like,also,it p[ays to do 2 or more coats,gives a fuller colour,hth.
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  #57  
Old 01-06-2005, 08:12 AM
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That's odd, I used to use it all the time for the actual models and never had any real trouble with it being too thick. Water does help though.
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  #58  
Old 01-06-2005, 08:36 AM
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Yer i think my paint is real thick because it has been sitting around for a while and it may have started to dry out a lil.
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  #59  
Old 02-06-2005, 04:55 AM
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Necron paint colours are awesomo, i highly recommend eth glow green (puke green). My mate ueses it on his Necron Warriors weaponry and it literally glows, its abotu $8 for a tub of it at Highpoint. I needto egt myself soem Imperial Guard, its only $150 for a whole regiment
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  #60  
Old 02-06-2005, 05:01 AM
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LoL. Warhammer! I used to play that game with my brothet and mate William when I was a nerd!
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